The 12 Days of Christmas…

(Just fill these into the normal words and you
have a song written especially for Christmas
in Cameroon)


On the first day of Christmas a whiteman gave to me,

Some achu in a foufou bowl
…Two sugar canes
…Three broken taxis
…Four pus pus carts
…Five kola nuts
…Six kicking goats
…Seven mamis fighting
…Eight roasted plantains
…Nine Nigerian movies
…Ten singing light strings
…Eleven Castel Milk Stouts
…Twelve Bia panges

Thanksgiving Chaos...yes, we did kill our own turkey (ok, "I" just took the pictures, but still...). What, do you think they have Butterball here? Um, nope...

November 28, 2006
Happy Thanksgiving!! I was lucky enough to be able to spend actual Thanksgiving eating homemade pretzels and hummus with friends and then travel to a PC gathering. We had a great time killing, cooking and eating our numerous birds—at one point the turkey, almost dead and nearly headless, flew off into the bush. It gave a whole new meaning to the statement "like a chicken with it’s head cut off." We stayed at a beautiful place with the best water pressure in all of Cameroon. A few of us did facemasks which, while drying, globed off into our breakfast, fished with bamboo poles and waxy cheese crust, and watched clips of "Black Vampire" (the wonderfully made Cameroonian film starring Kelsey and Reese…it came complete with music by Michael Jackson and ware wolf and satanic seagull noises. Oscar worthy.) While I did come back with 9000 mosquito bites and there was one, quite heated, travel debacle, it was well worth it.

PICTURES:
1…View from one side of the chalet
2…Sunrise (a little like Lion King? I thought so...)
3…Recovered turkey, still headless, from the bush
4…The turkey, mid-throat cut, pre dash into the bush
5…African travel (and yes, if you can't tell, I'm slightly annoyed)


Now, bring on the Christmas music!

November 6, 2006

It’s just normal…like Asian window decals and Nigerian Christian music turned up so loud you can’t understand a word…


So, like many things, the simplicity of daily conversations barely fazes me anymore. However, I feel it is my duty (in accordance with Peace Corps goal number three) to educate you, all my friends and family not in Cameroon, on some facts about the commonplace interactions that occur.

Person: “Ah, Miss Ally. You have come?”
Me: “Yes. I am here. How?”
Person: “No, fine. It is just normal. How for you?”
Me: “No, fine. It is going.”
Person: “So, you are here?”
Me: “Yes. I am just here.”
Person: “Ashia.”
Me: “Thank you.”
(Awkward silence)
Me: “Well, see you.”
Person: “Yes. Next time.”

So there is it everyone…amazing huh? It still strikes me as wonderful (wundaful too) that I can have a conversation and say only about ten different things. One key lesson learned is that when asked how you are, you always start with “no.” This indicates to the person who asked that, in fact, nobody has died. Neat.

Life in Ndu is fine. Same old. Aside from lots of travel coming up, both for holidays and Peace Corps stuff, I haven’t been doing much—planning a girls club that’s only happened once and continuing to plan our “hike tour” which may or may not actually happen in February—we’ll see! The rain is letting up; the dust is already piling up and my water supply dwindling. The neighbor kids are about to start working a lot harder to supply me enough water until I can get running water back (note, I’ve been saying this about the water coming back since March). But, thankfully, I am lucky enough to have wonderful missionaries with hot water heaters full of water that has been readily offered to me to use at my disposal. I may make it a weekly event. Showers at the Seminary…Maybe that’s what I’ll entitle my first novel! Now I’m rambling.

A recent discovery that I’d like to share is espn.com scoreboard. For a few of the past Sunday nights we’ve (we being my “trio” of Americans who also happen to be missing NFL—hi again, guys. Ashia) pulled it up and watched anxiously every two minutes or for each update—scores, yards, possession, etc. It’s almost like watching a game on TV…with a few minutes delay and no actual football. We’ll take what we can get at this rate! Go Broncos (and the Pack…we’re still hopeful).

That’s all from here…over and out.

October 15, 2006

I just got back from Limbe. It's amazing...the whole 4+ hours back to Yaoude I tried to think of a better word to describe it...obviously that didn't happen, maybe because I was distracted my the old Mami throwing up next to me or because I was gripping the seat in front of me for dear life as we passed massive trucks going easily 120 km/hr on a 2 lane road. Either way, my trip lasted less than 24 hours (ok, not necessarily the "trip" but the time spent in Limbe) but was worth the long travel, the petrifying 40 minutes I was lost in Douala and definitely the 12 pounds I lost sweating today while I traveled back! I even had my own personal tour guide...PCV Bill.

I stayed in a hotel inside the botanical gardens with an air conditioner that created a tundra-like ambiance--I was freezing--where I was able to watch a slightly scrambled Daily Show on CNN; ate freshly caught and grilled fish on the beach, under a clear starry sky; strolled along black sand beaches; gazed up at Mount Cameroon and began planning our pending ascent in March; waded in luke warm water and watched a storm roll in over Equatorial Guinea, the whole time thinking, “yeah, they’re right…we really are suffering.” I can’t wait to spend Christmas there; maybe I’ll wear a Santa hat while I do laps in the natural spring pool (if so, I’ll be sure to attach pictures).

But, on the ride back as I sat in the sweltering humidity of Douala, seeing my hair expand in my peripheral vision, trying to navigate my way around the “arm pit of Africa” with my fridgin and glare while also swatting bugs and feeling my face fry in the sun…I realized that, despite the greatness of the coast, how glad I am to be living in the “coldest place in Cameroon.”

The pictures are both from the beach, looking out towards Equatorial Guinea (that big island out there with clouds around it).

Probably the strangest 365 days of my life…

Well it’s official, as of October 1st; we’ve been in Cameroon for one year (I don’t count my 2 ½ week vacation)! Oh, how time flies! Looking back on pictures I tried to pick some that represented some of the big or interesting or typical moments from the past 12 months. I couldn’t include them all because a) computers are too slow b) my blog isn’t that big and c) there just isn’t time for 2 memory cards full of pictures. It’s been a year full of changes; eye opening experiences, great friendships, bizarre events, weird food, crowded cars, too much and far too little precipitation, and learning oh so many things—about me and about how to function washing everything from a bucket. Here is a quick visual from my year in Cameroon, some of the highlights, if you will. There’s many more to come, next winter, for any who’s interested I’m sure I’ll be happy to give a full and detailed slideshow!

PC Cameroon sign—This is painted on the side of one Peace Corps car, representing our proud 45 years here in Cameroon.





Hotel in Yaounde—this is a group of us during out first few days in Cameroon. Awkwardly getting to know each other over cards at the hotel, still fresh and shiny from America.

1. Me at cheferie—during one of our field trips to a palace we met many dancers and this fine man, proudly posing with us…and his gun.

Health group at swearing in—the health group as official Peace Corps Volunteers

Buses to post—we hired huge vans to carry us with our stuff to our respective posts. As you can see, they were piled quite high. At one point one of the loaders was almost ripped off the top when the driver tried to make up under an archway. He was fine, but I was pretty sure he had been decapitated in the process!


Chicken—for New Years Eve 2006 we grilled chicken and I was advised on how to pry the leg off the bone, not quite frozen Butterball chicken breast, huh? It might be the flap of something hanging that makes the whole thing so appealing, I’m not sure.

My first roadblock—this was my first encounter with roadblock protests. It reminded me of a winter Sunday afternoon on I-70 with the post-ski traffic. Except there was no snow, any skiers, and it wasn’t just a traffic jam.

Kribi—during our training at the beach we were surrounded by tropical images like this one.

Talla with kids—Kids just love to have their pictures taken so they were happy to pose with us as we sported our African garb during a church program that lasted ALL day long.

Rainy season—the daylong downpours caused me to spend lots of time on my couch; reading, doing suduko puzzles or mastering the art of fire building (without kerosene). This helped me achieve my goal of reading 50 books in a year—ok; I didn’t actually finish the 50^th one until October 5 but close enough!

Happy 4^th of July—this is Ben, one of the missionary kids, with me during our 4^th of July celebration, which came complete with hot dogs, cheesy patriotic American music, and ice cream!

Tapas at Kelsey’s—one of my best weekends in Cameroon was spent in Bafut with Kelsey and Kate. We watched tons Sex and the City, successfully removed a lizard from the kitchen using a colander and oven mitt, went running to the entertainment of the entire town, and ate tapas under palm trees before the rain fell.

Ladies night—a fun night out in America with my “siblings.”

Out of the many, many interesting signs I see around, this one made me laugh a lot (particularly, point #1).

So here’s to another 365 days in Cameroon. May they be just as exciting/educating/interesting/funny/ tiresome/adventurous…choose your favorite.


PS...Hi to "Team Unity" my trio of new Americans in Ndu!
PPS...Miss you Donnelly.

Drying clothes in front of the fire cause it's too wet and rainy to do it anywhere else...at least without them getting mildewy and taking a week to dry. Thank God for fireplaces!!

September 7, 2006

Flashy hats, God, and Roadblocks

Since I’ve been back it seems that one of my co-workers finds in necessary to wear a new hat every day. These aren’t the normal hats you see around—like a Domino’s Pizza baseball hat or the common black Adidas cap. Nope, these are a variety of cowboy hats, in all colors. We’re talking florescent orange Jagermeister, shiny teal with sparkles, and woven with a red sash. Not only are they quite fetching but he always, without fail, has the chinstrap drawn so tightly that the skin around his neck and cheeks puffs out along the edges. It all adds nicely to his Canadian tuxedo, always well pressed.

Among my many cultural lessons here, one is about God. In the Northwest province, specifically, God is everywhere. Every taxi is painted with a slogan of some sort (“Jesus Saves” “I Am Covered With the Blood of Jesus” or, my favorite, “Thy Will Most (yes, most) Be Done”), people will bring up God on a regular basis, sing church songs ALL the time, very loudly, and love to argue about the difference between divorce and polygamy. I try very hard to steer clear of these conversations because I’ve found, also, that my cultural (and likewise religious) perspectives are quite different. Recently, however, I got into an argument about why I wouldn’t bring this man back to America with me. He thought that bringing up God would convince me because, after all, he wanted to have money and mansions and nice cars—America is full of stuff like that, waiting to be taken. I tried to find the correlation between his desire to have money, mansions and cars with God…he cleared it up for me. You see, God had told him that that was his way in life. To have many material possessions. Obviously. I didn’t argue, just put in my headphones and said I had to work.

After surviving my second roadblock in the past four months I feel informed enough to add this among my insights and thoughts on la vie Cameroonaise. So, it seems the tea works just outside Ndu haven’t been working in the best conditions—i.e., haven’t been paid regularly in years. They finally got mad enough to chop down approximately 100 trees, pile them in the road and seed them with bee hives. Obviously this wasn’t the easiest thing to get ride of…may have had something to do with angry men with axes, guns, and machetes, or the swarming bees, I’m not sure. Either way, it lasted almost a week and caused great distress among travelers (me included), anxiety and stress on the part of local government trying to calm the situation especially after a gendarme was hospitalized and possibly killed by a rock to the head, and talk among the entire province about the privatization of the plantations around the country. The highlight of my 6+ hour trip (84 miles) to Bamenda was the point wherein our driver had all 18 passengers get out, carefully walk down a very steep, very muddy hill while the driver tried to slip down. At one point about 9 men who were working on cramming rocks into the potholes were actually holding the van up so it didn’t plummet over the side of the hill. Eventually the roadblock was cleared but not before I was slightly scarred by the massive gun I saw sticking out from a pillow case in a passing car, the jabbing pole I sat on for 6 hours, and the feeling of having our van almost flip over as the driver daringly tried at another hill. I’m alive, the road is cleared, and we’re all happy up here in Ndu…that is, until the next attempted revolt.

Some insights on life back in Cameroon. Flashy hats, God and Roadblocks.

18.08.06

I am officially back in Cameroon after an amazing trip home. I hauled two huge bags with me full of presents and one or two things for me. I think my mom was glad to see me go after I spent 20 minutes throwing things at her that wouldn't fit, to "send me later." I did make it back with a few jars of peanut butter; some great smelling candles lots of books and about 12 remaining Twizzlers. Somewhat successful, I am excited to get the package and see what great items I threw out at the last minute!

Travel took some time and patience (luckily for everyone involved I am still going strong on my quest to be patient), I was lucky enough to miss the terror-chaos and get to Ndu unscathed...after a few days in bush taxis. Some great British missionaries gave me a ride half way up the now muddy and pot hole filled Ring Road. They had me over for tea and shared some random facts; like that the UK didn't have photo ids until recently. Who knew?

I am happy to be back despite my hesitancy in the days leading up to my departure. Everyone seems excited for me to be back and I'm hoping with school starting in a few weeks that work will pick up then. For now, I'll just enjoy the rain and cold-have some fires and pretend it's winter. This is the closest I'll get for another year. It was great to see everyone! Keep in touch.

08.06.06 Wow...America has been wonderful. I was lucky enough to be able to take a few weeks off to come back for Lexie's wedding (see above). Aside from some anxiety about America and being shocked at the clothing on teenage girls in the Atlanta airport, the transition was easy. I feel like I never left. I got to see many friends--who came very far to see me :) and had a great time in Denver, Boulder and Steamboat. I am getting packed up now and realizing how much stuff I am taking back...I feel like I may be taking more this time than when we left in September! I keep telling myself that most of it is for others but a fair amount belongs to me. I have had fun enjoying the luxuries here but am excited to get back to life in Cameroon. Hopefully work will keep me busy until the next group of health and agro trainees arrive. Then, we'll be distracted with PCT drama and whatnot. Thanks to all my friends and family for putting up with me during my trip. Thanks for the dinners and coffees, the movies, the shopping and dealing with my deep thoughts on changing the world. Give me another year and I'll be ready for more ladies' nights and Kappa reunions! Nobody else get married while I'm gone!!! I love you all!

Picture 1) Me, Harry and Katie pre-hike, acting like tourists at Fish Creek Falls.
Picture 2) How beautiful is Colorado??
Picture 3) Yay Kappa...
Picture 4) Lexie and all the Kappa girls in a typical sorority pic :)

PICTURES:
1. The commissioners (a capella group)
2. Serve the Orphans Foundation marching in the rain on National Day
3. My view one early morning
4. Talla farms...lots of corn and huts
5. The 'doctor' in Talla at one of his infant welfare clinics, he's weighting a smol pikin.

6 Months “Au Village”
As the days near the big red mark on June 14th (for reasons aside from Lexie’s birthday and the unfortunately non-recognized holiday of Flag day), I begin to reflect on 6 months in Ndu—thus what the red mark stands for, in case you were wondering. So, I’ve compiled a list of some of the 40 wonderful things I’ve learned over the past half-year in Ndu. While the list isn’t all-inclusive and I’m sure I forgot some key things, it gets to the point, which is…well, I’m not really sure. There is a point to it all, although I am beginning to think that I may not find out until I’m packing my bags in 2007, or possibly much later. But for now, here’s some lessons learned after 6 months au village.

1. There is such a thing as a stupid question. Below are a few that you just shouldn’t bother asking. They are, by definition, stupid questions.
*Will there be palm wine?
*Will there be kola nuts? *Will there be corn foufou?
*Is it too early for a beer?
*What time does it start/will we leave/will it end?
*Does this match?
2. Kids in America snack on fruit snacks and juice boxes, kids in Cameroon snack on sugar cane, fried fish heads, and anything they pick up off the ground.
3. “Ca va” and “Ashia” are always appropriate responses.
4. It’s ok to yell—they probably deserve it.
5. Careless squatting never did anyone any good—likewise, wash your shoes often.
6. Don’t plug your Ipod into anything, just don’t.
7. Eto’o Fils. Enough said.
8. Vache Qui Rit and Coca Light weirdly taste like pumpkin pie when taken together.
9. There is a proper way to burn trash.
10. They’ll flat out laugh in your face…just accept it.
11. Running water is a wonderful thing. So are clean carpets, sinks, hot showers, ice cubes, and seatbelts.
12. Nothing happens on time. Nothing.
13. National holiday or church event to attend? Bring snacks and a good book.
14. After a while it is possible to block out children screaming, “White” or “Kingba.”
15. Don’t waste energy fighting about women’s rights with men who’ve been at the bar for more than an hour or are obviously slurring and/or telling you about the power provided eating by bush meat. It’s a worthless struggle.
16. There’s no poverty, crime or sadness in America. Amazing huh?
17. Who needs an alarm clock when you have children pounding water jugs on the side of your house at 5:45 AM?
18. You can never have too many mangos.
19. It is possible to transport up to 15 people in/on a two-door Toyota. Plus goats.
20. Calling someone “my friend” usually means you want something.
21. There’s something about a Phil Collins song playing from a hut as you walk in the rain that can really brighten your day, you know?

22. It is possible to go through 5000 CFA phone credit in less than a week and not actually talk to anyone.
23. You can win 2 games of Spider Solitaire in a row—and few games are as addicting.
24. The phrase, “Don’t be a fool, stay in school” has NEVER meant so much to me.
25. There’s a real joy in ironing.
26. Take advantage of sunny days to dry clothes. There’s nothing like a mildewy towel to ruin a nice bucket bath.
27. Pretending you can’t hear and/or don’t understand can get you out of a fair amount of unwanted conversation.
28. Lying is completely acceptable.
29. Careful with a camera—they’ll make you ‘snap’ and ask you, one million times, for a copy.
30. There’s something truly wonderful about special English.
31. Muddy hills are REALLY slippery, and I am really ungraceful.
32. We are all “really suffering.”
33. “Wundaful” means quite the opposite.
34. You can easily communicate through strange noises and weird words.
*The deep breathing “I understand”
*Ab-ba!
*Teeth sucking
*The disapproving click
*Etc.
35. Keep candles ready and matches near.
36. If there are trees piled in the road and drivers all have beers, you’re in for a long day.
37. I can’t overemphasize the necessity to always have Purel ready…and, similarly, worms are not a joking matter.
38. Texting into the BBC is nothing to be ashamed about…you’re just contributing to the “Global conversation.” And, it’s a great feeling to hear your text read aloud. It can really make a candle-lit, rainy night worthwhile.
39. Dr. Atkins’ would have committed suicide here…corn foufou alone would have driven him to madness. Ah, the wonders of a “loaf” with easily 6000 calories, 75% of them carbohydrates. It gives new meaning to the spare tire that’s for sure.

40. There’s nothing wrong with a Rent sing-a-long in the bush taxi, while trekking through the jungle, or alone while cleaning your floors. And openly bawling to any part of the movie is quite acceptable. After all, “live for 2day” right?

May 23, 2006
Well…There’s not a whole lot to update on. Life has become very routine and a majority of the craziness that is Cameroon is shocking me less and less (which is good, I think!) aside from the technical difficulties and harassment which can still ruin my day—as a few of my email recipients can attest to!! Things are going well, work is kind of slow, a lot more planning for perspective projects that actually doing much. The rains have really come though, which is nice since I also have not had running water in over a month…rainwater sustains me! I have realized, too, how much water I actually use—and this is doing everything in buckets too! It’s a good lesson on conservation…it’s all a lesson of some sort. I have also officially become a Harry Potter junkie…I was up till 3:30 AM one night finishing #4 and used it in an analogy this weekend…embarrassing? A little…but at the same time, I really ok with it. I am saving #5 for a rainy day!

So this past weekend was “20th May”…that’s what they call it, really it’s “National Day” (or 4th of July Cameroonian style, as I was calling it). Being friends with the DO (divisional officer) has many perks. One is just having fun friends but another is the holiday celebration comfort (take this as you will…we’re still talking Cameroon). For the march pass (just like Youth Day and Women’s Day…they just march, and march, and march…) I was seated under the grandstand with Linda, Debi and Lance (my missionaries—yes my missionaries). The rain started falling about 5 minutes before it started and it got really wet and really cold really fast (that is for all those not under the cover of the grandstand). Luckily that meant fewer people marched and the whole thing, which was supposed to be 5 hours, lasted 1 ½!! I retreated to mini-America (ie, Cameroon Baptist Theological Seminary) and watched tennis on satellite and ate pizza. The soccer match was next and the rain had cleared up. Again, I got seated front and center—with Linda and her husband. It was a good match, Ndu vs. Wowo (a town just outside Ndu). It went to shoot out and I was nervous—aside from the anxiety of the game there were probably a couple thousand people standing around…crowds make me nervous. It went well though, Ndu winning, no riots and aside from the police beating (“controlling”) a few people with sticks, no injuries. We headed off through a crazy main street; people were psyched, to the DOs for a cocktail. Good food, good company and the Commissioners (the acapella group I mentioned last time) performed. All in all, a great National Day for me—one of the first times I have enjoyed the attention brought on by being one of 4 white people in town.

It’s hard to imagine that it’s summer since it’s just getting colder here. No snow though…that’s still a rumor (however we’ve decided they may think snow and hail are the same thing…who knows?!). I am feeling less and less like leaving Ndu, even for Internet or vacation—which is good, part of integrating, I think. Even this weekend, I was hesitant to leave aside from being out of powdered skim milk and oatmeal (my two staple food groups…besides mangos). Hopefully work will pick up and some projects will start coming around. Until next time…

*I wasn't able to post all the pictures quite yet...I'll work on it.*

April 21-April 25, 2006

Where has the time gone?! It’s almost May. I can’t believe it. I was in Bamenda this week for a quick day trip; our provincial meeting and my friend, Kelsey, got her traditional rights. It was pretty cool. The Fon of Bafut (where she did it) is pretty powerful. He has 48 wives, a beautiful palace (see picture #2) and pretty famous, as far as Fons go. Kelsey came strutting out, in only bra and skirt—perfect for a Victoria’s Secret commercial—knelt in front of the Fon (see picture #3) and had some pounded up pumas (we hope) rubbed on her as the Fon gave her a traditional name. Meanwhile, I was handed a beautiful but significantly wet (the ‘diapers’ aren’t quite up to Pampers standards!) child…Violet (see picture #1). She was very well behaved but for sure peed all over me. Kelsey then had to drink palm wine out of her hands, do a chant with the queen mother and pose for many pictures. We spent the evening eating Samoa’s (thanks Vicki!!) and chocolate covered macadamia nuts sent from America while it poured. Typical day in Cameroon, I guess.

The rains have come meaning no dust but lots of mud which I’m convinced is mixed with latrine run off—I’ve concluded this by the smell that is emitted from each of the rust colored streams that now flow everywhere. I can’t complain though, it’s cooler and no dust! And minus being eaten alive in Bamenda—and surely, in my paranoia, contracting malaria—it’s a nice change (Rain clouds coming into Ndu, picture coming next time!). I am very busy, although I’m not sure with what. Between work and random meetings I feel like I have no extra time. It’s nice, makes the time go fast, but at the same time…unnecessary stress! I am headed to Yaoundé this weekend for another meeting and on the way, will go to a concert for the acapella group from the Baptist Seminary. Should be interesting, although I heard them practicing—Diamonds on the Soles of Her Shoes was one selection! (Side note: The concert was great…I had some pictures but do to some IT difficulties, couldn't upload them. I'll try to soon).

Yesterday I spent 5 ½ (yes, 5 ½) hours in church. I went with my landlord/landlady for the church dedication. To make a long story short, almost the entire 5 ½ hours was in dialect and I was sitting up front—hard to hide my boredom while I’m glowing like a beacon of Caucasian-ness from the front of the room. By hour 4 I was texting like a fiend, finally positioned my bag just right so I could read my novel without being too obvious, and then watched huge black storm clouds roll in through the window. There was some serious rocking out though…these people are amazing. I’m trying to sway with the crowd and watching an eight-year-old, dressed in a gray sweat suit, alternating between blowing a cow horn with rubber tube, frantically drumming, and dancing like a pro…all of which sounds amazing and I can’t even clap on beat. Man…

04.03.06 It is Monday morning (11 AM) and I’m in the office to “work” for a little. Just to make myself feel productive, I don’t have much to do today. We were in Talla yesterday for the Foundation Stone celebration for the Presbyterian Church. I’m exhausted! The night before, we spent two hours watching Rent on Kelsey’s laptop (amazing!!) while the boys cooked. We drank wine and didn’t eat dinner until 9—way too late for me. There ended up being a few fights (not serious fights, just fun ones—involving brooms and air pumps) wherein Matt became a ninjap-see above picture-and then Reese whapped him in the face with a portable tire pump. We laughed to the point of tears a few times. The next morning we walked down the hill—dressed in our African clothes—to the church, I—of course—rolled my ankle so I limped down. We were immediately ushered straight to the front of the church where we sat with the D.O., Fon, and other important people. The service itself lasted about 5 hours. The first 4 we were really patient—I had to stand up and introduce all the whites since the pastor only knew me and we danced up front while making our donation—which they loved! We heard a few new great songs including one that went: “Allo, Allo…Allo, allo…Allo Jesus me telephoné. Allo, Allo!” Each time they “allo”ed they’d make the phone sign, like they were actually chatting with Jesus. Too funny. Then we took a short break, walking to the market (really just about 15 shacks along the road) to have some mimbo (palm wine). After finishing off three bottles we went back to the church where the crowd had dwindled greatly. They were auctioning off donations of food…it’s really fun. We went to sit with the kids who were staring at us…hoping that us sitting with them would be exciting/scary enough so they’d stop staring. It worked; they kind of freaked out and just sat very still :). Then we all auctioned—mostly against each other—for a calabash bowl full of fruit and some pink sparkly wine of some sort. Everyone thought it was great, cheered and laughed each time we shouted out prices that were usually much too high. Afterwards we were ushered to a meeting with the Fon. It was a small room with only men and two of the queens (who aren’t married to the Fon but are his second in command and just take concubines—I think). We were allowed, against tradition, to sit inside with the men. Matt and Reese drank palm wine from horns with the Fon. As we were leaving to go eat, the Fon signaled to me…then asked why I had not been answering his calls (apparently people are catching on to the fact that I don't answer my phone, ever…oops). He said he wanted to see me before we left to go back “up” (meaning to Matt’s village). Being the paranoid person that I am, this made me nervous, but slightly flattered since the Fon is pretty much as powerful as it gets aside from the president. Especially in the Northwest province, tradition is much stronger and more respected here than any other province.

So we ate lunch, drank some more palm wine, chatted with some of the pastors and funny women from Talla, and realized that it was already 5—we had to make the hour hike up the hill and get back before dark. So we went outside to go meet with the Fon again only to get sidetracked by a dance party…we were handed pompoms and danced around the drums with some women for a while. I kept pulling little kids in the circle to dance with us…they got nervous but became popular after dancing with the white girls. We greeted the Fon and agreed to come meet with him on Wednesday when we go back…I was informed later that he wants to talk about going to America (I made sure they knew I was “engaged” at home so I couldn’t bring another man back…they assured me he was only kidding about marrying me but did want to give me a position in the palace. I said only if I got a higher position than Matt…that spurred another “argument” and disagreement of cultures. It’s all just one big cultural exchange!) We then hiked back up the hill, I walking with a few Cameroonians explaining how they could prevent bird flu…they got very sad when I said the fowls shouldn’t sleep inside. We got home just after dark, tired, hot and full of palm wine. I am exhausted today!

I wish you could see us, five Americans dressed in African clothes, sharing palm wine and kola nuts with Cameroonians and explaining one thing or another about America…yesterday it was how cold it was there, what you make houses out of, what sort of alcohol we have and some gender equality things…it’s always entertaining!

Pictures:

#1. Ninja Matt

#2. A mimbo break with the men of Talla.

#3. Just us girls with some more kids...we pulled out the camera and they came runnin'!

03.28.06
Hi! I have been back in Ndu for a week now. It was kind of a hard adjustment after a week at the beach and two weeks with my friends—but I made it. Just after I got back we had a training seminar for health club coordinators so I jumped right in, leading that seminar and teaching six sessions over two days. I opted to spend almost all Sunday inside, listening to the radio, doing WAY too many crossword puzzles and relaxing. It was great. Yesterday we went down to Talla to “meet and greet.” There’s a big celebration this weekend for the Presbyterian church so the whole village is super busy planning—not so busy that they couldn’t share one too many bottles of palm wine with us, but busy all the same. I promised to wear my African outfit and dance on Sunday…I’m hoping they won’t remember but not betting on it! We also bushwhacked around some farms looking for Matt’s nursery and I was sure we’d come across a poisonous spider or get a chigger or something…just paranoia, thankfully! They are so welcoming there and we always get one or two speeches in our honor, which is entertaining…especially when it’s from the men who’ve been at the mimbo house all day. So I am staying busy, I have so many ideas for potential projects that I need to sit down a figure out which ones are realistic for me to accomplish in my time here. That’s the next thing on my ‘to do’ list…after buying bunk beds and a new mattress.

Cameroon is often overlooked on the world-scale. I mean, honestly, did you know where Cameroon was before I came here? I did only after looking it up. But it’s been in the news a lot recently; Goodwill Games athletes running away, bird flu, and Nigerian boat crashes…but I assure you, things here are fine. Just waiting the rains and dealing with a few measles, rabies, and cholera outbreaks (don’t worry, among my 853 vaccinations, I received both of those and I boil and filter my water like a pro). It’s funny to hear about Cameroon on the BBC or VOA or even see it on CNN.

I can’t believe that it’s spring there! I missed winter…it’s a strange feeling. When I came into work today the screen saver on my computer was entitled, “Winter Wonderland. Steamboat Springs, Colorado”…Yeah, I was so excited. I brought all my co-workers in a proudly showed them. Made my day but also made me a little sad that I missed the snow. It has felt like summer since…well since I arrived in October (for those of you who are keeping track—and I am—that’s 6 months ago!!). Aside from a few rainy days and cool nights, it’s felt very much like August since I got here. Mind you, it’s still “very cold” here in Ndu according to all Cameroonians. It’s not uncommon to see my neighbors setting out to work wearing coats and hats and children playing in one-piece ski suits. I just laugh now and may stock pile scarves to give as gifts.

Since rainy season is a bit delayed (after two weeks of “early rain” in February it’s stopped) the sky has been super clear. Each night when I go out the stars amaze me. It’s even more amazing than in Bandjoun since we’re higher in elevation and further from a big city. I heard a BBC special on the “African night sky” and people who set out to see and study it…I can understand why. There are billions and billions of stars and I can only recognize some of the constellations—I think it may be that some of from the Southern Hemisphere and some are just too far away to be seen elsewhere. It’s incredible.

So that’s all for now. Hope all is going well there. Happy spring break for those of you still schooling (“schooling” is some of my special English slipping in, sorry). The rest of you, enjoy the warmer weather not ignoring the chance for a May snowstorm in common Colorado fashion. Keep in touch!
Oh…and thanks for all the emails regarding my mumu.. I appreciate the supportive/sarcastic thoughts. And no…I have not gained that much weight, but thanks for asking!

Picture: There are a few bugs here...this one was killed and stuck to the wall just like that so we were able to document it's size.

20.03.06 I just got back from IST (in-service training) in Kribi…because we’re lucky and our APCD is great we got to have it there, along the coast. It was great. The beach was beautiful and aside from the 8-5 “training” part the week was really fun—just kidding Kim, the training was great too :) It was really weird to be in francophone Cameroon again since I’ve been speaking only “special English” for 3 months. But I survived and realized how badly I need a French tutor. Kribi is great…it’s a tourist spot since it’s along the beach so they’re more used to white people—we still paid too much, got deranged, and stuck out (especially when traveling in a pack of 15). We ate fresh seafood each day, one night we went to a restaurant (a friend of a counterpart) and had shrimp, fish and crab for free…amazing. We also ate at a little rasta restaurant along the beach that was just picnic tables on the rocks-had flowers and shells everywhere, the waves were crashing on the rocks as we ate fish and shrimp that they'd just caught and the owner (I think) played music in the background. I could detail all the wonderful food but I’ll just say that it was some form of fresh fish each day. We had some karaoke-like singing each night at the hotel bar too—it usually involved one or two European tourists having one too many, buying drinks all around and the ‘singer’ (if you will) leading the whole bar in a rousing rendition of “When the Saints.” There were Glamour Shot meets Little Mermaid photo shoots on a rock along the beach, a few jellyfish incidents, waterfalls right into the ocean…a great week. Now I’m back in Yaounde on my way back to Ndu.

Before IST was International Women’s Day (March 8^th) and holiday I was quite unaware of before coming here. But it’s a huge deal…parades, singing, dancing, every woman in town in dresses made from matching material. Intense. I had my Kaba (or mumu) made and I’ll just say that if the camera adds 10 pounds, the Kaba adds 40! It was an interesting experience. The women were very proud, marching up and down the street holding signs and singing—all the authority figures came and watched. And then everyone retires to the bar to celebrate “their day.” I was leaving the next day for Yaounde and had an “ant incident” to take care of, so I didn’t join the women at the bar. I’m a little disappointed, however, because it seems there were a few entertaining events—one including a full out brawl in the street. There’s always next year.

It was great to see my friends from training…many of them I hadn’t seen since we left Bandjoun in December. We were able to tell about our posts and work, talk about possible projects, ideas, etc. I think we’re all planning a few trips to each other’s posts to help with camps or trainings. We also watched a “Globetrekker” movie on Cameroon. It was really interesting and I’m sure is available in America…isn’t everything? I think Globetrekker is a PBS show but the movies are available on the Internet and at libraries I’d think. Anyhow, if you’re interested, it’s pretty cool. That’s all for now. Hopefully I’ll have more soon!

PS-My March Madness bracket sucks…apparently knowing nothing about any of the teams this year + a few upsets, is ruining the whole thing.

PICTURES:
#1. Lindsey and me at the beach. We were all hoping for a great sunset but the haze/clouds didn't allow for that all week...amazing how easy it is to find somthing to complain about :)
#2. Jenny, Stacy, Lindsey, me and Lindsay at the beach in our pagnes.
#3. The waterfalls into the ocean.
#4. Women's Day 2006. Me with a few of my co-workers, Emmaculate, Patience and Rose. Like I said before, the camera adds 10 pounds, the Kaba adds 40! Very unflattering but I felt like I was wearing a tent all day and almost tripped on it once...I plan to wear it often, especially when pounding laundry or something like that.

2.18.06 Well...here's me, looking fetching as usual and balancing a pot of faux flowers on my head at lunch one day. I'm becoming more talented daily. Probably I'll be carrying large dining room tables soon, if I can get my balance issues taken care of and stop rolling my ankles! :)

02.13.06
Things have been interesting recently. I thought that getting settled meant getting boring, (sort of uneventful) but it seems that each week something happens that makes me realize that there are always surprises. I mean Ndu is the same…dust, dust, pigs, goats, screaming children who run down the path by my house pounding their water jugs on the ground on their way to get water at 5:45 AM, taxi drivers cutting pieces of the tire off when there’s a problem—then continuing, rationing water because it only runs 2 days a week, the complete happiness of finding a new short wave station, and did I mention the dust? Yes, there are things like bird flu and road bandits that scare me a little…but for the most part, it’s the same old!

Today I saw a young boy, an orphan, at the clinic who is suffering from epilepsy. His guardians don’t really care for him…he hadn’t eaten at all that day, is responsible for getting medication for his illness (which luckily he can get from the SOF clinic), doesn’t go to school, and just has old, torn clothes. It was so sad for me to look at him and wish I could do something—wondering what it would be like …and then realizing how common it is here and how I am just beginning to see situations like his. That’s a big problem for me here, realizing that many of the problems around are just too big. They stem from much bigger problems—ones that are far beyond my, or any one person’s, reach. It’s hard to look at simple acts that I can do and hope that it will help a little, knowing that the larger problem will remain far after I am gone…does that make sense? However, there is other work that is quickly rewarding, my hopes of bigger projects seem hopeful too. So work is keeping me busy—both literally and generally emotionally challenging.

I bought a tree. Woody. He’s being cut down this week and I’ll let him dry in the yard until about March 15th (the day rainy season officially starts) when I’ll store him in my traditional kitchen (which has still yet to be opened) so I’ll be fully prepared for rainy season. Apparently it’s “so cold” (this is said by all Nduians with a shivering action and a sacred look on their faces, even after I explain to them that in my home there is “this much snow”—which I say holding my hand above my head). I’m excited about the tree. I feel like I am really “in” now that I am purchasing my own lumber.

I also got a cat…well not yet, she/he still lives with my landlord, but will take official ownership next week. I am a little nervous about the fleas, ringworm, and other strange diseases that animals pick up frolicking around in latrine components, or with pigs. But I will completely inquire of the vet in Bamenda and wash the cat regularly, which should be worthy of a few blog entries. Anything to avoid another rotting mouse in my bed! Ew.

I also got a wasp sting (sucked…whole arm went numb and itched for days!), shattered a bottle of wine after tripping on the stairs in Kumbo, and have taken up a new obsession with frying…I don’t eat most of it, but really like to fry things—could be the fearful rush of splattering oil, I’m not sure (I hope you’re all taking note of the sarcastic undertones to this…otherwise I sound a little crazy). Youth Day was Saturday and was…interesting. The kids prepared for weeks to march down the main street (slightly resembling communist soldiers in training…straight arms, high knees, matching uniforms and black shoes…you get the idea!). There was traditional dance, singing, some races, and absolute craziness. I swear everyone in town was lined up along the street. I sat under the grand stand where I met the other white woman in town…a Baptist missionary. It was great…I was sure I was the only one here. I may start walking with her and another woman (yep, that makes three white people in town…aside from Matt…but he’s just the Blanc Savage, that’s different) …I have all of a sudden become middle aged, but can’t wait—too bad I can’t wear spandex, that may be frowned upon! (PS, after spending the other afternoon with them, they’re awesome. It’s a mini-America up there…a great refuge!)

That’s all for now. Trying to keep track of more fun/crazy/African experiences. I’ll be updating soon!

02.10.06 This posting got erased, somehow...hopefully it won't be on there twice after I post it again. If so, sorry. Anyhow, last weeks Thursday night included a dead mouse rotting under my mattress, me taking him out with rubber gloves and a cardboard box, not sleeping at all, and my urgent search for a cat! Here's the ''Arfrica Experience'' I had last week!


We left from Ndu, me perfectly content in my jeans, long sleeved tee shirt and huge moto helmet (while I won’t say it’s “cold” here, the temperature definitely drops at night…sort of desert-like; cold at night, hot during the day). We bounced along past the miles and miles of tea plantation (just hills almost emerald in color) and finally hit paved road (“tar” road, as they say here). That went curving down, down, down. There were hills all around us, dotted with farmland, big trees and small huts. It was beautiful. The road kept turning and turning down into the valley (into the plain where we were going), and I just stared off at the hazy hills and farms everywhere I looked—wondering how they possibly farmed on that steep of an incline. Finally we passed through a small town and it started to get hotter, especially under my helmet where there were now pieces of hair plastered to my forehead. On one side of the road the hill went up, still covered with eucalyptus trees and shrubs but down the other side it was a mixture of banana trees and palm trees. They created little jungles in the valley below. The road was very steep and there were sharp turns (almost switchbacks) and as the moto turned sharply, I gripped for dear life onto the handles and squeezed my eyes shut. I hate motos. At this point my right foot was completely numb so I tried to wiggle my toes, refusing to remove them from the foot-stand. The road kept going down and down—we passed an old Fulani man riding his horse bareback along the side. Soon we hit dirt road again and the air was hot! We paused for a minute to make plans in the town and when I took my helmet off, my hair didn’t move and my face was hot and red.

We were on the road soon there after and I stared in disbelief as we passed jungle on one side and savannah on the other. The plain is hot and dusty, hazy from fires and from the dry air. The jungle (to my left side) was rows and rows of palm trees and deep, thick shrubs as far as I could see. To the right (the savannah) was straight from Lion King—trees branching in front of the sun, dry shrubs, dirt spotted with large rocks and low trees, white birds perched on branches flying in packs, their color contrasting the brown and yellow of the landscape. I kind of expected to see a cheetah or lion leap out and scamper along—no luck. The road just intersected these two different scenes for miles. We passed through some towns that shocked me…I saw the “3rd world country” aspect for sure; houses missing roofs, doors and parts of walls and children running and splashing in the dirty, grayish water—missing shirts and shoes, their skinny arms and legs flailing and their big stomachs sticking out—while their mommies, babies strapped to their backs, pounded laundry and gossiped, looking up only to check to see that all the kids were still there. We blew by on the motorcycle and I waved from the back, eliciting big smiles from the children below. There were herds of cattle strolling slowly along the dirt road—controlled by a few thin men, dressed in long, flowing cloth and big sticks—that would barely notice as we’d honk and breeze by. And, of course, there were many women, carrying large baskets on their backs and huge ones on their heads, walking in flimsy flip-flops along the dirty and bumpy road to their farms. When we stopped for lunch we were swarmed by flies and the hot air was now humid and sticky. I tried to peel my long-sleeved shirt off (which I’d kept on to protect myself from the dust—and in my mind, from the imminent fall we’d take. Yes, I realize a shirt wouldn’t save me, but I need all the reassurance I can get!). My clothes were stuck to me, and my hair…well; I’ll leave it up to your imagination. We strolled through the market, long enough for me to get many stares and “Nasara!”s (another form of ‘white man’).

As we drove off again I pulled out my camera in attempt to capture my surroundings, which were still amazing me. As my vision was blurred by sweat and it dripped out from my helmet, I tried to imagine how I could possibly describe this but realized I probably couldn’t do it justice. I wish I could just have had you along with me on the moto…bouncing and having your back realigned as we drove. I could feel all the bones in my spine and pelvic girdle (Thanks Anatomy) shifting and jamming into the seat as we’d hit bumps in the road and my counterpart (who was driving) would mutter something resembling, “oops.” We road wound back up into the hills, now the sun was low—it being five-o-clock—and it made the horizon very hazy while smoke from farmers burning land rose as well…I could barely see the mountains and hills anymore, they were just faint lines in the distance. The road was crowded with women returning from the farms, their baskets now full. By the time we got back to Ndu, I had pulled my sleeves back down and felt a chill as the 3 pounds of sweat I’d lost now cooled on my skin. When I returned home (after 2 ½ hour ride back due to a Gendarme stop and a petrol refill) my entire butt, right calf and three of my left toes were numb for an hour afterwards. I slept well!


There’s so much to tell this time! I haven’t written in weeks and feel like there have been so many cool things going on. I wish I could have a video to record it all…however, I don’t think all of it is interesting enough to deserve recording! Either way, I thought I’d just put a few points below, for now.

-Les Lions Indomptable! It is now week two of the African Cup of Nations (the biggest soccer tournament after the European Cup and the World Cup). Cameroon is playing in the quarterfinals this Saturday (the 4th) and the whole country is obsessed…for good reason, they’re awesome! We watched the first game at the bar (yes I have “a bar”) and it was insane. People were lined up three and four deep at the door trying to see through to watch. When they scored…singing, cheering, dancing, and complete jubilee! The “Eto’o” song is my favorite…basically you just chant “Eto’o, Eto’o” over and over…I plan to name my dog after him when I get back to the U.S. My moomoo—the first of many I hope—is soccer/Lions and I promised that if they make it to the finals I’ll wear it out in public …hmmm.

-Matt and I visited the Fon of Talla (a nearby community) this week also. Since he’s a pretty powerful Fon (Chief) there was a whole process that Matt had to go through including letters and buying “mimbo” (palm wine)…me, I just went along. We both wore our African clothes and met with him and some elders in the community to describe our work and get acquainted if you will…he promised Matt a beautiful wife and said he’d marry me…great. It was cool; he posed for a picture with us and seemed very excited about our work. I plan to do some work with the clinic there—some nutrition and water sanitation stuff.

-Apparently there is some confusion about my job. Understandably, I didn’t really understand it until about a month ago. So I’ll do my best to describe it…basically I am a health resource for the community. I am based with an NGO (Non-Governmental Organization). I help them with trainings, projects, organization, basic work in the office, and helping at the clinic. We work in schools around the community implementing projects (funds come from other organizations for school supplies, uniforms or school fees and we pick orphans and vulnerable children to benefit) and in trainings of teachers, peer-educators and mentors. Outside my work with the NGO (Serve the Orphans—SOF) I mostly teach about health. I work with groups (HIV/AIDS group, women’s group, etc) teaching them about nutrition, HIV/AIDS, basic disease prevention, water sanitation/treatment, hygiene, income generation projects…you get the idea. I like to say that I’m a resource for health information here. If they have questions, I try to answer them. If (when) they’re all sick with diarrhea, I try to explain why and how they can prevent it. I try to help those living with HIV and AIDS how they can live positively and how to protect their health. I will also work in the schools, eventually, with kids focusing on HIV/AIDS and STI prevention and girls empowerment. So I hope that answers some of the confusion about my work here!

-I had my first entire outfit made last week…it’s pretty great. We’re getting matching outfits made for International Women’s Day (March 8th)…I’ll post pictures for sure!
-That’s all for now! It’s lunchtime. Hope all is well there! I’m in Bamenda for the weekend, enjoying a well-needed (if you ask me) break J Talk to you soon.

2.6.06 Photos, photos, photos!! Some are not loading, but I'm trying.

#1) The sun setting on my way home, on my moto adventure.
#2) Just outside Ndu, on our walk to the Fon's palace last week.
#3) Palm trees, the jungle via moto.
#4) Kate, Kelsey and me in the bathroom at a restaurant. You can't tell but the bathroom is basically on a deck...from the toilets (where we're standing) you just look out into the city...wide open.
#5) Kate and me...and the bag of carrots I almost died (via pous pous to the kidney) getting during a CRAZY rush at the market...Ashia.
#6) My house!
#7) One of the views from the moto.

Hope that this actually works and I'm not just getting my hopes up! I'm headed back home today, we were not able to see the Superbowl, and we searched hard until about 3 AM. Oh well, it was a fun weekend anyway. Keep in touch! Hope you're all doing great!